What Makes a Good Straw Hat
According to my favorite expert
Since I’m visiting my parents in Florida right now, I’ve had the opportunity to reacquaint myself with my mom’s straw hat collection. If you know my mom, you know that straw hats are an integral part of her signature look, and she has curated an impressive assortment over the course of many decades. Some of them, she’s had since her early twenties.
I’ve never been much of a hat person, but recently I’ve been coming around to them — primarily for the sake of protecting my face from the sun, but also because I think they look cool, and because they’re nice for bad hair days (which are frankly more common than good hair days for me now that I have an infant).
I’ve been sampling the collection (i.e. borrowing a hat) daily, which has prompted a burgeoning desire to invest in one of my own. In light of this aspiration, I got to chatting with my mom about what makes a good straw hat. She had such helpful thoughts that I told her to hold on a second so I could grab my laptop and take notes. I’m sharing the most salient takeaways from our conversation below, along with a shopping roundup of hat links I’ve curated in case you’d like to browse alongside me.
My mom on the importance of straw quality:
“I really focus on the quality of the straw. The finer the weave, the more body and malleability it will have. It won’t be too stiff, but it will still hold its shape. And it will feel good in your hand and against your skin, just like a nice cashmere feels good when you hold it. Pay attention to the material. A lot of hats look like they’re made of straw but are actually paper or polyester. Raffia is also frequently used for sun hats, but it tends to droop over time. I’ve bought a number of hats that are raffia that I can’t wear anymore unless I’m holding up the brim with my hand.”
On particular characteristics she looks out for:
“I’m always on the hunt for a unique shape because that just keeps it fun, but for your classic, go-to straw hat, it’s got to have a nice brim — at least 4 inches — and a crown that suits your facial shape and head. I tend to prefer a crown with more structure rather than a simple round crown.
The other thing I look for frequently is a good chin strap. I tend to wear hats on walks, on bicycles, and in windy places. It’s unfortunate but not enough manufacturers look to putting a nice strap on a hat.”
On adding a personal touch:
“You can put brooches on hats, you can put beads on hats, you can put ribbons on hats. Your imagination is the only limit. One time I found a very cool dragonfly broach and pinned it on a hat. Another time I found a cool feather in my backyard that looked like it came from a hawk and tucked it into the band of a hat I bought in Peru.”
On which hat is her favorite and why:
“A vintage Gucci straw hat that I found on Vestiaire Collective, with extra-wide black grosgrain straps. I practically trembled when I found it, I was so excited. The straps completely cover my ears which makes it a little hard to hear, so I usually untie them if I’m talking to someone.”
On packing a hat while traveling:
“For travel I recommend a canvas, collapsible hat that holds its shape even after you fold it up in a suitcase.
But if you bring a straw hat and it gets mangled in any way shape or form, just spritz it with water or run it a little under the sink and reshape it, and you can usually bring it back to life.”
On storing your hat(s):
“I keep my hats on hooks near the door so I can grab one on my way out. The hooks I use here in Florida are from Pottery Barn. The trick is to find a hook that’s deep enough. If you’re going the vintage route, look for hooks from the 19th Century. Since everyone wore hats back then, they were built to project out from the wall six inches or so in order to actually hold a hat. Contemporary hooks are good for a bathrobe, but rarely a hat.”
Shopping links:
Wyeth straw hat, $55. This one has all the makings of a classic, and at such a good secondhand price point for a hat made with real straw.
Janesse Leone milton hat, $175. My mom has this style and it’s one of the two that I like to borrow the most (pictured on me above in the lefthand photo). I also found it here in a bigger size with a brown cord.
Vintage Italian straw hat, $78. The orange trim!!!
Handmade straw hat with leather cord, $101.54. I stumbled across this Etsy shop called Chapelierdor during my hat reconnaissance and it looks very promising. The seller has a note at the top of her shop page where she mentions her passion for working with high-quality natural materials.
Lack of Color natural dolce hat, $114.99. My mom is a big fan of Lack of Color’s hats, and based on my market research they are very well-priced at retail for hats made of real straw.
Wyeth straw boater with chin strap, $140. I love the shape of the crown.
Gigi Pip straw fedora, $51. I really like Gigi Pip’s hats so I was excited to find this one secondhand at a fraction of her typical retail prices.
J&L Boutique “Harley” hat, $84. When I showed my mom a preview of this newsletter, she told me she was going to buy this hat (in the darker color).
Lack of Color Paloma hat, $130. The milk chocolate brown ribbon is so pretty.
Lola straw hat, $100. My mom also has this style from Lola and it’s the other of my two favorites to borrow (as pictured on me above in the righthand photo).
Jenni Kayne straw fedora, $108. This one has more of a Western feel, and a thicker weave to the straw.
Handmade straw hat with black or white ribbon, $112.95. Another one I really like from Chapelierdor.
xo Harling
Love this interview! Full of wisdom, but the hook tips especially are so smart.
Great post, thank you! From one hat collector to another.