The Most Important Items in My Closet
A different way of thinking about "signature" style.
One of the most common questions I get asked is how to develop — or at least better understand — your sense of personal style. I attempted to answer it in this letter I wrote a year ago about what distinguishes good personal style, but today I want to explore a related thought. While I continue to find labels like “maximalist” or “minimalist” more of a hindrance than a help in the pursuit of honing your sense of taste, I also understand the desire to lay claim to a parameter — something tangible enough to guide the effort of putting together outfits, of knowing when to buy something and when to resist. To that end, I do think there is value in identifying your signature pieces — those items that resonate deeply with your personality and preferences, and that you keep coming back to again and again.
What is a signature piece?
Signature pieces are items in your wardrobe that you consistently gravitate towards because they make you feel the most at-ease, both physically and mentally — confident, comfortable, and authentically yourself. They can be anything from a tailored blazer to an old T-shirt to a necklace. They are not necessarily trendy or expensive, but they play a crucial role in how you get dressed. Think of them as your sartorial calling cards. If a close friend saw one of these items left behind at a party, they would know it belonged to you.
Identifying your signature pieces, and using them to develop a better understanding of your unique style footprint
Notice the items you wear repeatedly and think about why you choose them. Is it the fit, the fabric, the color, the way they lend themselves to a particular outfit template? Consider your lifestyle and the practical needs of your day-to-day. Signature pieces are usually things that suit the shape of your everyday life, making it easy to integrate them into what you’re wearing.
Once you’ve identified your signature pieces and why you’re drawn you to them, you can use that information to help you get dressed — and also shop more mindfully. Instead of buying items impulsively or based on trends, you’ll be better equipped to consider the holistic, long-term use of any new item by thinking about whether it would complement your existing signature pieces or replicate their most compelling traits.
Focusing on individual items that you can reinterpret in different contexts gives you a flexible framework for exploring your style, ensuring it continues to reflect your taste over time. Think of it like a trellis that supports a growing plant while allowing it to spread and evolve.
Idiosyncrasy > conformity
No one else is going to have the exact same signature pieces that you do. By using them as a guide for getting dressed or making a new purchase, you’re cultivating a sense of style that is distinctly yours, unbound by the constraints of predefined categories or algorithmic influences.
My signature pieces
Over the last few weeks I’ve delved into the recesses of my camera roll and Instagram feed to determine what my own signature pieces are. I noted down 27 pieces in total (which is definitely on the high end — the number will vary based on the size of your wardrobe and the contexts in which you are typically getting dressed) and categorized them according to the season in which they are most relevant. I’m sharing them below, along with my takeaways after completing this exercise.
NB: Most of my signature pieces were either bought secondhand or are many years old, but I’ve hyperlinked to the few that are currently available to shop online in case any of them spark interest.